Paper: I use 90# or 110# cardstock paper. WAUSAU Exact Index. 8.5"x11". 250 sheets is #49311 for 90# and #49411 for 110#. 

Rubber Band Gun. We use rubber band guns to shoot our opponent's soldiers and vehicles during "contact" games. Lower impact gaming is well done by using various dice rule sets. Many are available on the web for free. 

Soldiers: Start a search on the web for plastic soldiers or military figures. There are many different manufacturers and 50 or so soldiers in plastic sell for between $5 and $7 USD on resale sites. Others can cost between $10 and $15 USD. Some of the best are resin vehicle crew sets. We sell some flat sets for 
$ 3.00 USD.

Resources, Tips, Gaming
Paper Tiger Armaments
1/72 scale paper models

Tools and supplies.
Other items;

White Glue: I use the big E. (Elmer's). Get yourself a blob about the size of a nickel and let it start to get tacky.

Tooth-picks: Round and wooden. Flat and thin will not do. Squared shaft almost as good. You will use these for the fine application of glue as well as for cannon barrels, smoke dischargers, structural reinforcement, etc. Square tooth-picks, cut to length and colored, make good vision blocks.

Cuticle Scissors: Those short curved blades are great for small round parts though the ends are usually very sharp and should be used with caution.

Masking Tape: Use this as sizing on gun barrels and muzzle brakes.

Paper-clips: Needed for certain applications such as some landing gear supports. BIG ones and small ones.

Paint and Brushes: For the most part, talking paints, while there are few areas that will need painting there are a few colors you will want in acrylic. In order of priority I would list them as; Sand, Olive Green, Black, Burnt Sienna, Red, White, Yellow, Metallic gun metal. A very fine brush is good for application. Sometimes a fine point permanent marker will work best.

Color Wheel: For mixing and matching paint colors. Available at art stores. Inexpensive.

Tea bags (used) are also handy. Snip off the paper tags (leave the string) and leave a few out in the sun to dry. The drying tea leaves will stain the outer bag in a natural scale manner. Now trim the bags open and dump out the tea. the leaves should be saved, as some like to color it and use it as a natural looking ground cover or flocking. The outer tea bag can now be soaked in thinned acrylic paint of the color desired. While still wet, the stained outer bags should be crumpled into a ball or folded into a small square (not too tightly) and allowed to dry. Once fully dry, the outer bags may be carefully unfolded and cut to size. There should be staining as well as crinkles to your tea bag "tarp". The stranded string should be saved for cables. They may be cut to length and then colored metallic gun metal. You can do it by taking UN-thinned paint on two finger-tips and drawing the string through. The un-thinned paint works into the strands and dries quickly. It will also be much stiffer but still pliable. The ends may be doubled over around the end of a tooth-pick and secured with glue. Remove the tooth-pick and there is your cable end loop. Carefully glue your tow cable into place. Almost every armored vehicle has at least one.....  

#1. Wire cutters (snippers).
Useful for cutting floral wire and string steel (see #s 11 and 12). Available at arts and craft stores in the jewelry department.

#2. Small needle-nose pliers.
Useful for shaping floral wire into shapes desired (see #11). Available at arts and craft stores in the jewelry department.

#3. Small clamp tweezers.

#4. Large clamp tweezers.

#5. Cutting knife.
Useful for carefully cutting out the smallest of items with a modicum of force, or scoring with light pressure. They can be "armed" with either hardy X-acto blades (from a craft store) or with less hardy but longer lasting edged scalpel blades (from medical a supply). This knife handle happens to be from "Fiskars" and incorporates a soft "fore" area for precision and safety. The knife itself can be found in arts and craft stores, often in the "scrapbooking" department.

#6. Medical stainless curved forecepts.
I have had these for a while. I've even used them for one of their intended purporses (removed my own stitches). They do work great, yet they are precision tools that have "grooved" ends. These grooved ends can mark a paper model. The curvature at the ends and their adjustable "clamp-ability" still render them useful in some model builds.

#7. Small, round, and tapered end device.
Useful for rolling smaller items into a "curl" or rounded shape with the shaft area. The tapered end is useful for forming smaller "coned" parts. The item shown happens to be a firing pin to an SKS. A small or trimmed knitting needle (available in arts and craft stores), should give the same results.

#8. Long tweezers.
Tweezers are important. Short tweezers will work, but longer tweezers will work in short situations and long. This example happens to come from a school dissection kit. "LaCrosse" makes a good pair and they can be found in pharmacy stores, in the "make-up" department.

#9. "Inside-out" clothes-pin.
Good for clamping parts together.

#10. Small clothes pin.
Useful for clamping small parts together. Available at arts and craft stores.

#11. Floral wire.
Useful for fashioning "bendy" parts.

#12. Guitar strings.
Useful for Vehicle antennae. Available at music stores or online.

#13 Scissors.
Get a good pair you are comfortable with. These are teflon "cutter bee" scissors. The kind with rounded ends may be safer. Available at arts and craft stores.

1. Do not remove parts from the sheet(s) until you need them for assembly.

2. Use glue sparingly.

3. Read directions completely before assembly.

4. When using a blade or scissors be careful. Have an adult help you if needed.  

5. Take your time. Once you have the file you can print and make one or a dozen to equip your legions. Start by making one carefully and then go for the rest.

 6. There are no unit markings or vehicle numbers. In some cases there are no nationality markings. This is in expectation of you assigning (painting) them yourself. These can also be added to a back-up file of the model in simple art software programs before printing.

 7. Markings are sometimes easier applied (hand painted) when the parts are flat, before forming into shape.

 8. It can help to make a photo copy of the parts pages for reference during building. Do this in black and white so you don't waste color inks.

 9. Research the subject (I have). There is a lot of information and many images of some of these subjects. Not so much for others.

 10. ALWAYS a good idea to wear protective glasses during craft projects involving sharp stuff. Keep some bandages in your art box just in case.


GETTING STARTED: You will want to get some soldiers. You may want to start by looking at the models offered free on this site to determine which soldiers will go well with the vehicles listed. If you are lucky enough to live near a large city there will probably be a decent hobby store. Call ahead. You may have to order them online. There will be a delay but this will give you time to build some equipment. Some people like to paint and detail their soldiers but this is not necessary unless your opposing forces are molded from the same color plastic. Directions for doing so will be included with the soldiers. A rubber band gun and some rubber bands for ammo. will be needed also. Firing from a straightened finger will work as well. This is known as projectile gaming. There are other methods of gaming using other rules and dice, etc. There are many sets of rules available for free on the 'net. Some paper soldiers are available on our site. I recommend about 50-100 soldiers for each side so attention challenged young minds do not become bored. In time more soldiers will need more equipment. A good open area indoors with a hard floor can be your battle field. Pick up and count your men when finished, NEVER LEAVE A MAN BEHIND. I do not recommend playing with these small soldiers outdoors unless you do not mind a few MIA after each skirmish. KEEP SMALL SOLDIERS FROM YOUNG CHILDREN. Some soldier sets I have seen are marked 8+ age while others are 6+. We recommend the upper range of age. Use your discretion. Please keep in mind that, despite the term, war is not a game.