HOW OFTEN DO YOU RELEASE NEW MODELS?
We try to release, on average, at least one model a week. Sometimes these are fresh versions of previous designs or an entirely new model. At other times we may not update for a month and then release several in a short time-span.
ANY PLANS FOR SHIP MODELS?
As my designs are 1/72 scale, any vessels will be of this scale, and thus will be mostly small craft.
The great majority of our models come at a resolution greater than a single page. During "Page Setup", un-check the vertical and horizontal boxes and then zero out the margins (they will reset to default minimums). Enter scale at 64% (46% for 1/100). Examine the "Print Preview" before printing. Your model should now print at 1/72 scale. Your printer may vary....
ANY TIPS ON RE-SCALING? *
Our man in Norway tells us;
"Scaling is very easy, you needn´t know many maths. Where you come from
divided by where you want to go, multiplikated by 100. Example: 1/72 –
1/48, 72:48x100= 150%"
According to that formula, I get 128.57% enlarge for 1/56. For scaling UP, you will likely need to cut and paste the vehicles (or parts of them) on to a separate page (in an art program like mspaint or corel draw. image forge is another and last i checked, free). Next adjust your printing percentage and preview. Turning each vehicle image 90* to the page might help too. Scaling down is done by decreasing your print percentage setting.
*REMEMBER, IF YOU START OUT HAVING TO PRINT AT 64% TO ACHIEVE 1/72 FOR OUR STANDARD RESOLUTION, YOU WILL HAVE TO SUBTRACT THAT WHILE SCALING UP. I.E. 64% SUBTRACTED FROM 150% EQUALS 86% FOR 1/48 SCALE.
HOW DO YO MAKE YOUR WHEELS LOOK SO GOOD?
For the wheels, I usually roll or curl the tread surface around a tooth-pick and then glue at the tab. Using the white glue sparingly on the tread surface edge, fold over the circular sides. As adhesion starts to take place, gently roll the wheel between your finger tips to help form it as close to perfectly round as you can. Some modelers prefer to color the edges before assembly. I do too, for some parts. Wheels though, I usually paint when finished, sometimes on the model. The raw paper edges not saturated with glue will soak up thinned acrylic nicely. I start with black or grey. a second coat will be muddy brown. Acrylic paints are cheap. A 99 cent bottle usually dries up on me before I can use it all (3 plus years?). Too thin, and the inks may run. too thick and it may be too noticeable. I tend toward the thicker, but paint with a tissue handy to daub up any excessive coloring. Brown chalk pastels work well too. Some grey grime can be done by carefully applying ashes.